In cold clear water, especially around rocks and/or submerged vegetation one of the very best things you can do to catch BIG largemouth is to fish the Cotton Cordell Grappler Shad.
The key to fishing it over the grass in winter is to make it run to where it just ticks the grass a few times each cast. This is done with line size, and to a lesser extent, rod position. Once again, the deeper you want your bait to run the lighter the line (or, the smaller the diameter). A good starting point on line size for this fishing is 10 lb Excalibur Silver Thread. If you need your bait to run deeper than it will on 10 lb Excalibur Silver Thread you should switch to Silver Thread Fluorocarbon as it is denser, sinks and has a smaller diameter.
I would not recommend going below 10 lb test on either lines when fishing grass due to the size of the fish and the cover. Once you have the proper line size and your bait is running at the right depth you may find that some areas of grass are slightly shallower than others. If this is the case you can raise your rod and your bait will run a bit shallower. But for the most part you want your rod pointing more or less right at the bait so you can have some leeway to rip the bait free of grass.
The key retrieve for this bait over grass is just a steady crank, more slow than fast. If it occasionally grabs some grass, give the rod a jerk and it will clear the grass from the hooks. Many times it also cause a big bass to eat your Grappler. If it is grabbing grass often you need to adjust your line size to make it run shallower. In spring you can do very well by hanging your lure in the grass and ripping it out, but in winter it is better to only tick the top of the grass. There are exceptions, especially on cloudy and windy days, but for the most part the above statement holds true.
If there is no grass, only rocks, the retrieve that seems best is a slow and fairly steady retrieve, but with some pauses, especially as your bait clears the deepest water it can touch bottom in. For instance, if you are fishing points that drop into deep water, you will likely be casting into less than 4 feet of water. Within a few cranks you will be touching bottom with your bait, and as the bait goes over deeper water the bait touches less and less. When you sense it has touched bottom for the last time on this cast, it is time for the pause. Just stop reeling for a few seconds. The Grappler will suspend at this depth for a few seconds before it starts to rise to the surface. Then simply start cranking again at the same pace. Sometimes they hit it during the pause, sometimes right after you begin the retrieve again.
Sometimes they don't want the pause, just a steady retrieve all the way in, so it pays to experiment to see what triggers the fish on that particular day.
The reason this bait is such a killer in cold clear water is it has a very tight wiggle, regardless of retrieve speed. This can be important, because even in cold water there is times when the bass are aggressive and will trigger better on a fast aggressive retrieve. These days are usually the cloudy windy "front is upon us" days. So if you are lucky enough to be on the water on such a day be prepared to try some fast cranking. If you are in an area with plenty of fish, it won’t take long for the fish to tell you what they want on such days.
Above all, experiment with your retrieves and pay attention so when you find that magic speed or variation you can capitalize on it.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
What Lure Color Should I Use Today?
Here are some tips to help you select the right lure for the day.
Color reacts differently based on how light penetrates the water, and makes the selection of a lure become a science as opposed to a guess. They say that the majority of fish see in color since the fish eye is composed of rods and cones as our eyes are.
Day vision is driven by cone and these cells drive color. Rods are the night vision drivers and normally focus on the intensity of light. In the dark there is no ability to determine color. Knowing the type of fish is important, are they day feeder or night-feeders?
Obviously this will be your first step in selecting a color. At night you'll need
something that will catch a night feeders attention more rapidly, and during
the day, the day feeder lure choice will need to be catchy and vibrant that will
catch the light and draw attention. For example, bass are day feeders, and fish
such as walleye tend to feed at night.
The vision of a trout (such as rainbow and brown) are similar to that of ours.
They can see a wide spectrum of color, and have the ability to focus both far
and near very quickly.
Now, light behaves a bit differently once it penetrates the water. Longer wavelengths
are reds, then oranges, yellows, greens, blues, indigos, and violets. These are absorbed first once hitting the water. These colors tend to fade out appear black as the light hits the water. Red light is almost totally absorbed within the first 15-20 feet.
Orange penetrates about 30-40 feet, and yellow goes about 60-70 feet. Green and blue may travel as deep as the light goes. The total amount of light also decreases as it hit the water and travels down. Quite simply, the brightness changes.
At 40 feet, a yellow lure is still yellow, yet its intensity isn't as brilliant as when it originally had hit the water. Water clarity and activity is also something to keep in mind, Using a red lure in your deep-water cove is much different then using it on a steadily, rapidly moving stream. The pitch into a cove may show the red lure for 10-12 feet, but when you cast it into a moving stream you may only have visibility for a few seconds. White and silver colors tend to work best at deeper depths, so if you're fishing deep water this is your choice in our opinion. Also look for light reflecting lures. Remember that water tends to have a blue
or green background. If you are using these colors, they tend to bleed into the background of the water and become invisible over a quick period of time.
Is it Cloudy or Sunny?
On a cloudy day, the light isn't as intense. The colors just don't show as deep as they would on a sunny day. This should be the one thing to remember if anything is gained from reading this. It is one of the biggest things to think about, since any fishing day is either sunny, cloudy, partly sunny, or partly cloudy. That's fifty percent of the decision right there!
Day Fishing or Night Fishing?
Remember the first paragraph about the rods and cones? Well, here's where they start switching. Just like the headlights of a car, the fish eyes change and start using the rods and colors are no longer a component. Here's where you'll need to get their attention and use a light or a dark lure. As dawn or dusk approaches, red seems to be the winner because of how it appears against the lightening sky. As the day progresses, you'll need to match your water and select colors that will attract attention. Move down the scale, start with red early in the morning (when they strike from below, this color looks dark against the sky background), then go to blue, green, yellow, and orange. Just see how cloudy or sunny it is to help you with your choice.
You just need to try many different types in your water of choice a bit to figure it all out. We said earlier that science is a major component, yet some good old testing by you will achieve the final result. Nothing is "text-book" with fishing. Conditions vary and change, and fish behavior can be modified by the slightest change in the area's noise, other predators...etc. Predators stalk the bait first, then go after the head. During the day, this is how it is all going on below you. At night, schools of fish are normally broken up, and the fish will look for contrasts against the sky background to go after their prey. This is where the moon phases come into play. Read more about phases of the moon here
All in all, your tests will achieve the desired results. Remember one thing, you can use all of the scents and noise-makers you want, but if the fish can't see where what to hit you're loosing out. That's why color selection is the most important part of your adventure.
We hope this helps you select a lure color.
Color reacts differently based on how light penetrates the water, and makes the selection of a lure become a science as opposed to a guess. They say that the majority of fish see in color since the fish eye is composed of rods and cones as our eyes are.
Day vision is driven by cone and these cells drive color. Rods are the night vision drivers and normally focus on the intensity of light. In the dark there is no ability to determine color. Knowing the type of fish is important, are they day feeder or night-feeders?
Obviously this will be your first step in selecting a color. At night you'll need
something that will catch a night feeders attention more rapidly, and during
the day, the day feeder lure choice will need to be catchy and vibrant that will
catch the light and draw attention. For example, bass are day feeders, and fish
such as walleye tend to feed at night.
The vision of a trout (such as rainbow and brown) are similar to that of ours.
They can see a wide spectrum of color, and have the ability to focus both far
and near very quickly.
Now, light behaves a bit differently once it penetrates the water. Longer wavelengths
are reds, then oranges, yellows, greens, blues, indigos, and violets. These are absorbed first once hitting the water. These colors tend to fade out appear black as the light hits the water. Red light is almost totally absorbed within the first 15-20 feet.
Orange penetrates about 30-40 feet, and yellow goes about 60-70 feet. Green and blue may travel as deep as the light goes. The total amount of light also decreases as it hit the water and travels down. Quite simply, the brightness changes.
At 40 feet, a yellow lure is still yellow, yet its intensity isn't as brilliant as when it originally had hit the water. Water clarity and activity is also something to keep in mind, Using a red lure in your deep-water cove is much different then using it on a steadily, rapidly moving stream. The pitch into a cove may show the red lure for 10-12 feet, but when you cast it into a moving stream you may only have visibility for a few seconds. White and silver colors tend to work best at deeper depths, so if you're fishing deep water this is your choice in our opinion. Also look for light reflecting lures. Remember that water tends to have a blue
or green background. If you are using these colors, they tend to bleed into the background of the water and become invisible over a quick period of time.
Is it Cloudy or Sunny?
On a cloudy day, the light isn't as intense. The colors just don't show as deep as they would on a sunny day. This should be the one thing to remember if anything is gained from reading this. It is one of the biggest things to think about, since any fishing day is either sunny, cloudy, partly sunny, or partly cloudy. That's fifty percent of the decision right there!
Day Fishing or Night Fishing?
Remember the first paragraph about the rods and cones? Well, here's where they start switching. Just like the headlights of a car, the fish eyes change and start using the rods and colors are no longer a component. Here's where you'll need to get their attention and use a light or a dark lure. As dawn or dusk approaches, red seems to be the winner because of how it appears against the lightening sky. As the day progresses, you'll need to match your water and select colors that will attract attention. Move down the scale, start with red early in the morning (when they strike from below, this color looks dark against the sky background), then go to blue, green, yellow, and orange. Just see how cloudy or sunny it is to help you with your choice.
You just need to try many different types in your water of choice a bit to figure it all out. We said earlier that science is a major component, yet some good old testing by you will achieve the final result. Nothing is "text-book" with fishing. Conditions vary and change, and fish behavior can be modified by the slightest change in the area's noise, other predators...etc. Predators stalk the bait first, then go after the head. During the day, this is how it is all going on below you. At night, schools of fish are normally broken up, and the fish will look for contrasts against the sky background to go after their prey. This is where the moon phases come into play. Read more about phases of the moon here
All in all, your tests will achieve the desired results. Remember one thing, you can use all of the scents and noise-makers you want, but if the fish can't see where what to hit you're loosing out. That's why color selection is the most important part of your adventure.
We hope this helps you select a lure color.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Tube bait lure for bass!
Start to use tube bait for bass fishing. Last Saturday I joined 2009 Montreal Chinese Bass Fishing, the winner use tube to land 60-70 bass, crazy! The biggest is 2lb 15oz. I only catched a mini bass :)
This morning, I start to use tube for bass fishing. Get one big bass near the shore, still need to learn tube fishing skill.
Increasingly popular with bass pros and amateurs, the tube jig is a slow, subtle presentation that can accurately imitate a darting minnow or a scurrying crayfish, depending on how it’s fished.
Tube baits consist of a round-headed hollow plastic tube ending in streamers. It’s mounted on a type of lead head jig, with a large hook, that’s specially designed for holding tubes. The jig head is inserted in the tube body with the hook protruding from the open end by the streamers. The hook eye, which is located about half way along the jig head, can be easily pushed through the soft plastic body.
The lead jigs are usually available in one-eighth and quarter ounce weights. When fishing in calm conditions, a light jig lets the lure drift slowly to downward. When drift fishing in a light breeze, the heavier jig can drops more quickly and can be jigged along the bottom where it does a credible imitation of a crawfish.
Most often, you’ll want to use tube jigs on those calm days when other presentations aren’t working. To do so, there’s a special casting technique that makes the most of the lure’s unique action. A spinning reel, spooled with six or eight-pound test line, on a light to medium action rod, is the best presentation rig.
Once you’ve located a structure or weedline that’s likely to hold bass, position your boat close to the targeted area. Simply flip the lure about 10 to 15 feet from the boat so that it will fall at the edge of the structure. Once the lure hits the water, close the bail and hold the rod tip up at a 45 degree angle. As the tube descents, it will swing in one direction until the slack is taken up and then swing in the opposite direction. This vertical zigzagging action continues until the lure hits the bottom.
Don’t be in a hurry to yank the lure off the bottom once its hits. Leave it there for a few moments in case a curious bass has followed it down. If you don’t detect a pickup, don’t reel in yet. Simply raise your rod tip as high as you can to lift the lure back towards the surface. Once it’s come up as far as possible, reel in the slack and let it begin drifting back down.
Since bass will hit tubes from almost any angle, be alert for a hit or pickup at any time the lure is in the water, even right when it’s right beside the boat.
Tubes can also be jigged along the bottom in the same way that you would use a jig and twister tail combination.
Some anglers prefer to use tubes as a "do nothing" presentation and simply cast it out and let it drag along the bottom where it’s likely to be mistaken for a tasty crayfish by an unsuspecting smallmouth.
A variation of this presentation is a tube bait used with a Carolina rig. This rig consists of a sliding sinker, a glass or plastic bead, a swivel, a monofilament leader 18 to 36 inches in length, an offset worm hook and the plastic tube (no lead jig). Brass sinkers and glass beads are best because they make a crayfish-imitating "clicking" sound when they bump together. Choosing the length of the leader depends on whether the fish are hugging the bottom (short leader) or cruising two to four feet above it. The tube can be rigged Texas-style with the hook point buried in the tube body to make it less likely to pick up weeds.
Many pro bass anglers always have spinning rod rigged with a tube bait ready as a follow-up presentation for bass that miss or back off a faster-moving spinnerbait or crankbait. When they see a bass follow their spinnerbait but not strike, they’ll change rods and pitch a tube right back at the spot where they saw the bass. The change to this slower, vertical presentation will often entice a strike.
The plastic tube bodies come in a bewildering array of colours and colour combinations, may of them flecked with sparkles in accenting or contrasting colours. Choosing which colour or combination to use depends on weather and water clarity conditions. Generally speaking, the old rule of light colours on bright days and dark ones of cloudy on overcast days also holds true for tube jigging.
When fishing the sand flats in clear water conditions, light-coloured tubes in white, off-white, pale pink and salt and pepper work well on clear or partly-cloudy days. On overcast or foggy days, dark colours such as purple, dark green, pumpkinseed (brown) and blue can really produce in both clear or stained water conditions. Two-colour tubes are particularly effective when the water is murky because the contrasting colour seems to give the striking bass a target to zero in on.
When crayfish seem to be the prime bait, dark green and pumpkinseed are the best colours to use for a dragging or Carolina-rig presentation.
Many tube baits are also impregnated with fish-attracting scents or salt crystals that are intended to not only entice a strike, but get the bass to hold on to the lure a bit longer. Both of these enhancements can make a real difference when bass are being finicky about hitting a plastic imitation.
For Long Point Bay, a selection of tubes in white, light pink, salt and pepper, dark green and pumpkinseed would be a good starting point for experimenting with this versatile artificial bait.
This morning, I start to use tube for bass fishing. Get one big bass near the shore, still need to learn tube fishing skill.
Increasingly popular with bass pros and amateurs, the tube jig is a slow, subtle presentation that can accurately imitate a darting minnow or a scurrying crayfish, depending on how it’s fished.
Tube baits consist of a round-headed hollow plastic tube ending in streamers. It’s mounted on a type of lead head jig, with a large hook, that’s specially designed for holding tubes. The jig head is inserted in the tube body with the hook protruding from the open end by the streamers. The hook eye, which is located about half way along the jig head, can be easily pushed through the soft plastic body.
The lead jigs are usually available in one-eighth and quarter ounce weights. When fishing in calm conditions, a light jig lets the lure drift slowly to downward. When drift fishing in a light breeze, the heavier jig can drops more quickly and can be jigged along the bottom where it does a credible imitation of a crawfish.
Most often, you’ll want to use tube jigs on those calm days when other presentations aren’t working. To do so, there’s a special casting technique that makes the most of the lure’s unique action. A spinning reel, spooled with six or eight-pound test line, on a light to medium action rod, is the best presentation rig.
Once you’ve located a structure or weedline that’s likely to hold bass, position your boat close to the targeted area. Simply flip the lure about 10 to 15 feet from the boat so that it will fall at the edge of the structure. Once the lure hits the water, close the bail and hold the rod tip up at a 45 degree angle. As the tube descents, it will swing in one direction until the slack is taken up and then swing in the opposite direction. This vertical zigzagging action continues until the lure hits the bottom.
Don’t be in a hurry to yank the lure off the bottom once its hits. Leave it there for a few moments in case a curious bass has followed it down. If you don’t detect a pickup, don’t reel in yet. Simply raise your rod tip as high as you can to lift the lure back towards the surface. Once it’s come up as far as possible, reel in the slack and let it begin drifting back down.
Since bass will hit tubes from almost any angle, be alert for a hit or pickup at any time the lure is in the water, even right when it’s right beside the boat.
Tubes can also be jigged along the bottom in the same way that you would use a jig and twister tail combination.
Some anglers prefer to use tubes as a "do nothing" presentation and simply cast it out and let it drag along the bottom where it’s likely to be mistaken for a tasty crayfish by an unsuspecting smallmouth.
A variation of this presentation is a tube bait used with a Carolina rig. This rig consists of a sliding sinker, a glass or plastic bead, a swivel, a monofilament leader 18 to 36 inches in length, an offset worm hook and the plastic tube (no lead jig). Brass sinkers and glass beads are best because they make a crayfish-imitating "clicking" sound when they bump together. Choosing the length of the leader depends on whether the fish are hugging the bottom (short leader) or cruising two to four feet above it. The tube can be rigged Texas-style with the hook point buried in the tube body to make it less likely to pick up weeds.
Many pro bass anglers always have spinning rod rigged with a tube bait ready as a follow-up presentation for bass that miss or back off a faster-moving spinnerbait or crankbait. When they see a bass follow their spinnerbait but not strike, they’ll change rods and pitch a tube right back at the spot where they saw the bass. The change to this slower, vertical presentation will often entice a strike.
The plastic tube bodies come in a bewildering array of colours and colour combinations, may of them flecked with sparkles in accenting or contrasting colours. Choosing which colour or combination to use depends on weather and water clarity conditions. Generally speaking, the old rule of light colours on bright days and dark ones of cloudy on overcast days also holds true for tube jigging.
When fishing the sand flats in clear water conditions, light-coloured tubes in white, off-white, pale pink and salt and pepper work well on clear or partly-cloudy days. On overcast or foggy days, dark colours such as purple, dark green, pumpkinseed (brown) and blue can really produce in both clear or stained water conditions. Two-colour tubes are particularly effective when the water is murky because the contrasting colour seems to give the striking bass a target to zero in on.
When crayfish seem to be the prime bait, dark green and pumpkinseed are the best colours to use for a dragging or Carolina-rig presentation.
Many tube baits are also impregnated with fish-attracting scents or salt crystals that are intended to not only entice a strike, but get the bass to hold on to the lure a bit longer. Both of these enhancements can make a real difference when bass are being finicky about hitting a plastic imitation.
For Long Point Bay, a selection of tubes in white, light pink, salt and pepper, dark green and pumpkinseed would be a good starting point for experimenting with this versatile artificial bait.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
American Shad Fishing - Pie IX Dam - Montreal
This morning, I went to pie ix dam with dad to fishing american shad. The American shad (Alosa sapidissima) is the largest member of the herring family Clupeidae. In many Canadian rivers, the annual "shad run" is a dramatic event. Within a space of a few weeks shad by the thousands come in from the sea and move upriver to spawn. When the serviceberry tree blooms (often called shad bush in eastern Canada) and the shad flies emerge from the St. Lawrence River around Montreal, the annual run has arrived.
The popular method for shad angling is fly fishing. A weighted "jig" (dart jig) is the preferred lure. Shad do not feed while migrating upstream to spawn, but like salmon they will strike at a lure.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Water level has been down in Old Port - Montreal
Still in Old Port, water level has been down, walleye seem go to more deeper and farther. Two walleye catched this morning with daddy.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Walleye and rock bass in Old Port - Montreal
This morning, old port, catch walleye and rock bass, and broke line with a big sturgeon :)
Check the 8 lb walleye landed from old port
When jig head meets sturgeon, pray the line
another big bass
Today's trophy
Check the 8 lb walleye landed from old port
When jig head meets sturgeon, pray the line
another big bass
Today's trophy
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